<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><title>Moto Maintenance on Roadrunner</title><link>https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/</link><description>Recent content in Moto Maintenance on Roadrunner</description><generator>Hugo</generator><language>en-us</language><lastBuildDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2026 00:00:00 +0000</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>Engine oil change</title><link>https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/oil-change/</link><pubDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/oil-change/</guid><description>&lt;h1 id="oil-change"&gt;Oil change&lt;/h1&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The v85tt is an air-cooled bike, and as such, regular oil and filter changes are imperative. The factory manual calls for an oil change every
6,000mi (10,000km) or yearly. if you&amp;rsquo;re using the bike particularly aggressively (racing, serious offroad/adventuring) then they recommend halving
the mileage requirement.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;h2 id="requirements"&gt;requirements&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;h3 id="tools"&gt;tools&lt;/h3&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;10mm, 13mm, and 17mm spanner/sockets&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;oil catch tray (i use one with an inbuilt reservoir but anything will do)&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;some pipe and a funnel to refill the oil (not strictly necessary but helps a lot)
&lt;img alt="it&amp;rsquo;s kinda hard to get the oil around the cylinder head otherwise" loading="lazy" src="https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/images/oil_fill.jpg"&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;h3 id="parts"&gt;parts&lt;/h3&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;at least 2 litres of 10w-60 oil. i buy 4l bottles of Castrol EDGE Titanium. the spec calls for 1.76l, but you&amp;rsquo;ll probably end up spilling a little&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;a new filter, these are specific to the newer small block guzzi engines - just buy from a piaggio group dealer or equivalent. i use a UFI 2553100.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;a new filter O-ring. these usually (always?) come with the filter, but in case you can&amp;rsquo;t get them, i believe it&amp;rsquo;s 46x3.5mm.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;a copper crush washer 10x14x1.5mm (you can bulk buy multipacks of copper crush washers on amazon - gutsibits are always out of them)&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;optionally, some oil change kits come with a new washer for the filter, but it&amp;rsquo;s not copper so i don&amp;rsquo;t believe it&amp;rsquo;s single use, and i don&amp;rsquo;t bother to replace it.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;h2 id="procedure"&gt;Procedure&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ol&gt;
&lt;li&gt;remove the 4x 10mm bolts for the sump guard, exposing the bottom of the bike. whilst you&amp;rsquo;re here, check that your 17 and 13mm spanners fit on the
oil drain and filter bolts.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;go for a long ride. at least 30 minutes. the bike is air-cooled and takes forever to get to its full operating temperature&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;pull the bike back onto your driveway and leave it idling until the last second. kill it and immediately open the 17mm drain bolt.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;let the oil drain for a few minutes, and give everything time to cool off before continuing.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;clean the drain bolt, inspecting the magnetic tip to see if there is much metal on it. a small amount is fine, big pieces are not.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;swap the copper crush washer on the drain bolt and replace, tightening to 50Nm.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;undo the oil filter bolt and remove the oil filter and o-ring from the filter cover&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;dip the new o-ring into the old oil and fit it on the filter cover, then apply the filter spring-side down&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;tighten the oil filter cover back to 25Nm.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;refill the engine so that the level is MAX when the bike is upright (not leaning to the left on the sidestand)&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;crank the engine and let it run, making sure the oil pressure light goes out within ~5 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;let it run for a minute or two, kill it, wait a minute or two, and then top up if it&amp;rsquo;s sunk below the MAX mark&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;replace the sump guard&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;img alt="a bottom view of the engine sump" loading="lazy" src="https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/images/oil_filter.jpg"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Stahlbus Brake Bleeder Install</title><link>https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/stahlbus-brake-bleeder/</link><pubDate>Sat, 27 Jun 2026 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://blog.roadrunner.motorcycles/moto-maintenance/stahlbus-brake-bleeder/</guid><description>&lt;p&gt;I&amp;rsquo;ve always struggled with bleeding brakes. it doesn&amp;rsquo;t help that most gear you can buy is sized for cars
and only sizes down to smaller bike brakes with awkward adapters which are prone to leak air. I noticed these
Stahlbus brake bleeders which replace the existing brake nipples, and incorporate a one-way valve into the nipple itself.
no matter if your pipe slips off the nipple, air won&amp;rsquo;t go back into the brake system.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>